James Cohen Specialist in antique rugs carpets and textiles is extremely passionate about his work and has been immersed in textile art for the last 18 years. He is committed to finding exciting rugs and textiles for private clients and dealers all over the world.

1. Jaf Bagface 2nd half 19th century 80cm x 56cm

The corrupt field design of the normally precisely drawn Jaf is immediately obvious and also very charming. We ask ourselves 'What happened here?' and it is a good question. What did happen here? Did the mother let her novice daughter weave unattended? Or was the mother herself in a playful mood? Even in the diamonds that are mis-shapen there lies a great deal of skill: The colours chosen are bright and clear, the wool uniformly excellent, the shape and size of the knots absolutely regular only the design has gone haywire! The twin to this piece (see last plate) is woven more or less regularly, in comparison to this one, but still has a quirky drawing.We may never know exactly why this excellent Jaf finished as it did, but it is a continuing delight today and will be for many more years to come.

Colours: 9

2. Jaf bagface, 2nd half 19th century 52cm x 53cm

Square format Jafs are a little unusual and this one more so for having two tones of undyed brown as well as a dyed and corroded brown in the top quarter of the weaving. This gives it a slightly somber appearance at first glance but with closer inspection you can see it has typically lively colours. One of the undyed browns may actually be of goat hair- as opposed to wool- as it actually stands proud indicating a tougher, more resilient and therefore different, fibre.

colours: 10

3. Jaf bagface, 2nd half 19th century 45cm x 50cm

This little jewel is packed with colour and blessed with the very best of Kurdish wool. It demonstrates exactly why the Kurdish people are often referred to as the masters of the tribal weaving. It is exploding with the very best dyes available, all displayed to their greatest advantage with rich, oily wool that shines beautifully. A real masterpiece, finely woven and densely packed.

colours: 13 (3 reds, 1 yellow, 2 greens, 3 blues, 2 purples, ivory and undyed brown)
SOLD

4. Jaf bagface, 2nd half 19th century 69cm x 58cm This example is a coarse and woolly beast, completely different to the previous example, yet woven by the same people. Despite the low knot count, the art value is high. Light shines off the long shaggy pile and the combination of the three reds, plentiful green and light blue captures and entertains the eye. colours: 10

5. Jaf chuval, 2nd half 19th century 86cm x 60cm

The first of the larger 'Chuval' size bagfaces, intended for carrying bulk. For this example, the weaver has used a much larger version of the classic diamond design, making for a more powerful visual effact. Note how the drawing of the guls in the centre of the field is precise and ordained, yet the half diamonds on the two sides of the field are corrupted- echoes of plate #1.

colours: 11

6. Jaf bagface, 2nd half 19th century 60cm x 47cm

Shimmering, silky wool characterises this Jaf with the diamonds appearing like little islands due to the strongly corroded brown lattice, a feature actively looked for by Jaf cognescenti. The loose, floppy weave is distinct and adds to the textile like quality.

colours: 11

7. Jaf chuval, 2nd half 19th century 101cm x 70cm

Although a seemingly random arrangement of coloured diamonds, if you look carefully, you will notice that there are alternate rows of red background diamonds slanting from top right to bottom left, a subtle but very deliberate effect, for those who like a little order in their chaos! A large and finely woven old chuval with a strongly corroded black lattice.

colours: 11

8. Jaf bagface with original plain flatweave back, 2nd half 19th century 53cm x 75cm

Rare to find a complete khorjin half with kilim back and original lappets, due to a commercial process in the 20's and 30's of dissembling the bags in order to use them as small rugs in the west. This example is the first of the 'blue lattice' group and has an extra zing with the use of white dots within the lattice. An un-dyed (and therefore not corroded) black border lends the necessarily strong frame needed to contain so many colours. No less than three greens and three reds makes this an extremely colourful bagface!

colours: 13

9. Jaf chuval, 2nd half 19th century 95cm x 61cm

By cleverly using a particularly striking and contrasting range of colours and mid-sized diamonds, this weaver successfully achieves an impression of kaleidoscopic colours when in fact there are relatively few! A very beautiful example, not for the faint-hearted! The damage to the border system is mostly due to the complete corrosion of the brown colour which has been poorly re-piled in places, though this may have supported the structure and helped prolong its existence. I also like the clear and strongly drawn inner 'step' border that has featured in several previous examples, but not to this high standard. Note also the blue lattice.

colours: 9

10. Jaf rug fragment (cut and reduced in size), 2nd half 19th century 1.05m x 2.20m

Jaf rugs, while available, are not nearly so common as there khorjin counterparts and rarely have anything like as many colours. Why this is so I cannot say, perhaps a shortage of wealth that only allowed for the production of smaller weavings or perhaps they simply did not see the need for colourful (and therefore expensive) rugs which would only be seen, by-and-large, by the family. Better to display the colour skills on the backs of donkeys for all to see, albeit in smaller more concentrated doses.

Despite the fragmentary condition, I still consider this a great example of rug art. The browns have corroded leaving the rest of the pile standing proud, there is a great range of strong natural dyes and the wool is soft and shiny. Running up through the middle of the field are half diamonds, relating this rug to the bags. See also plate 16 for an even rarer example of this rug design used in a bagface.

colours: 13